Remote Control Airplane Pre-flight Checklist
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Here's a very comprehensive list for safe and enjoyable flying of your
remote control airplane
.General and Overall Appearance of Remote Control Airplane:___ Check covering for adhesion and holes___ Wheel size___ Wing and tail alignment___ CG - fore/aft, and lateral balance___ All nuts self-locking "aviation" type or Locktite___ Name, address and AMA number in remote control plane___ Rubber bands (when used) in good condition with proper number used
Structural:___ All hinges secure: ailerons, flaps, rudder and elevator___ All glued joints solid___ Landing gear secure
Servos and Control Surfaces of Remote Control Airplane:___ All clevises have fuel tubing or other type retainer___ "Quick Connects" (where used) are secure and Locktited___ Check ailerons for proper direction ("Thumbs Up")___ Check right and left ailerons for binding and proper throw (dual rates?)___ Check rudder for proper direction___ Check rudder for binding and proper throw (dual rates?)___ Check elevator for proper direction___ Check elevator for binding and proper throw (dual rates?)___ Nose or tail wheel of remote control plane works properly___ Check all other channels for proper operation___ All servos securely mounted, and pushrods and arms are free from wires and other obstructions___ All control horns secure
Engine and Tank:___ Engine mount secure to firewall of remote control airplane___ Engine secure on mount___ Easy access to carburetor needle valve___ Prop secure and free from nicks and cracks___ Spinner secure and edges NOT in contact with prop___ Engine has been "broken in" with at least two tanks of fuel___ Engine runs properly, and throttle trim or kill switch shuts engine off___ Tank proper size and secure with clunk free
Radio and Battery:___ Radio and battery of remote control plane wrapped in foam___ Radio and battery secured in fuselage___ Antennae properly extended and secured___ RX and TX batteries charged and reading proper voltage___ Radio "range checked"___ Radio trims and Control Surfaces centered___ Buddy Box, if used, has same directions and trim settings___ If Buddy Box is a working transmitter, remove the crystal to avoid accidental interference with your remote control airplane
Nov 30, 2008
Review these many RC transmitter choices
Helpful RC Transmitter Information
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A good quality
RC transmitter
is a radio controller's dream come true. Whether it's just a simple three channel analog unit or a sophisticated 10 channel computerized radio, we want it to carry out our commands reliably.
It is actually an extension of our hands that reaches out invisibly to direct the model wherever we want it to go.
I don't know if it's ever happened to you, but to watch in suspense as the car, boat or airplane that we've invested time and money in fails to respond and inevitably crashes is just so disheartening.
One of the very first radio control planes I bought many years ago came with it's own RC transmitter, just a 2 channel unit. The plane itself was all plastic and I had a tough time getting it to fly because it was so heavy but eventually it took to the air. But not for long because the transmitter range was so short that within minutes my little toy plane disappeared into the blue yonder!
After that experience, I made sure that I had a "real" radio with a well known brand name like Airtronics, Futaba, Hitec or JR. In fact, my current RC transmitter is a JR 652 computer radio and I love it not just for the extra bells and whistles but because of it's quality workmanship...I've never lost anymore models due to a cheap radio!!
So if you're just starting out in model airplanes, I heartily recommend the high quality 4 channel
JR radios
because they will do 90% of what you need without complaint such as rudder, elevator, ailerons and throttle. Update: I now consider the
Hitec Laser 4 transmitter
an even better value because it features the very useful v-tail and elevon mixing functions all at an incredibly low price!
Once you've got some flight time under your belt and more than one model to fly, consider the advantages of multiple setups for those different models, and separate end point adjustments on both high and low throttle making idle and high-end setting a snap.
Other features will include a trainer system, servo reverse on all channels, mixing functions, landing gear and a rechargeable battery.
I've found a great selection of makes and models of RC transmitter with competitive pricing and must-have reliability at both the RC Discounts and HobbyTron online merchants so you'll be confident of complete control whenever you take to the skies!
(All links open new windows)
A good quality
RC transmitter
is a radio controller's dream come true. Whether it's just a simple three channel analog unit or a sophisticated 10 channel computerized radio, we want it to carry out our commands reliably.
It is actually an extension of our hands that reaches out invisibly to direct the model wherever we want it to go.
I don't know if it's ever happened to you, but to watch in suspense as the car, boat or airplane that we've invested time and money in fails to respond and inevitably crashes is just so disheartening.
One of the very first radio control planes I bought many years ago came with it's own RC transmitter, just a 2 channel unit. The plane itself was all plastic and I had a tough time getting it to fly because it was so heavy but eventually it took to the air. But not for long because the transmitter range was so short that within minutes my little toy plane disappeared into the blue yonder!
After that experience, I made sure that I had a "real" radio with a well known brand name like Airtronics, Futaba, Hitec or JR. In fact, my current RC transmitter is a JR 652 computer radio and I love it not just for the extra bells and whistles but because of it's quality workmanship...I've never lost anymore models due to a cheap radio!!
So if you're just starting out in model airplanes, I heartily recommend the high quality 4 channel
JR radios
because they will do 90% of what you need without complaint such as rudder, elevator, ailerons and throttle. Update: I now consider the
Hitec Laser 4 transmitter
an even better value because it features the very useful v-tail and elevon mixing functions all at an incredibly low price!
Once you've got some flight time under your belt and more than one model to fly, consider the advantages of multiple setups for those different models, and separate end point adjustments on both high and low throttle making idle and high-end setting a snap.
Other features will include a trainer system, servo reverse on all channels, mixing functions, landing gear and a rechargeable battery.
I've found a great selection of makes and models of RC transmitter with competitive pricing and must-have reliability at both the RC Discounts and HobbyTron online merchants so you'll be confident of complete control whenever you take to the skies!
Learn all about radio control sail boats here
Radio Control Sail Boats Explained
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The uniqueness of
radio control sail boats
is that they depend on the wind for their propulsion and speed. The radio controller allows you to maneuver the boats direction by guiding the rudder, but there is no power motor on any RC sailboats.
Understanding the anatomy of a radio control sail boat is the first step in understanding how a sail boat works.
Listed below are the main components:
Rigging This is the general term for the ropes that provide support and/or control of components such as booms and sails.
Mast The mast is the long upward beam providing central support for the sails. The top of the main mast is generally the tallest point of the sailboat. If a true sailboat has a crows nest, or lookout, this is located on the main mast.
Mainsail This one is the largest of the sails, which are pieces of cloth used to catch wind and propel the boat. The design on a main sail is often the signature of a radio control sail boat.
Jib The jib is a smaller sail, often located towards the front of the boat from the main sail.
Boom This horizontal beam found below the sail keeps the sail spread out and controls its rotational motion.
Stays These are the rigging pieces that prevent fore and aft movement of the masts.
Mainsheet This is a rigging piece that affects the shape of the main sail. The mainsheet is tightened or loosened to achieve the desired results.
Jib sheet This is a rigging piece that affects the shape of the jib sail.
Transom The transom is the flat, back portion of the radio control sail boat.
Hull The hull describes the part of the boat that sits in the water.
Deck This is flat surface creating the top of the hull.
Keel The keel extrudes from the bottom of boat and holds the ballast.
Ballast This is the weight used for balancing the boat.
Rudder The rudder is located in the back of the boat, hangs into the water, and is the device used for steering.
Stern This is the rear portion of the boat
Bow This is the front portion of the boat
Helm The helm is the mechanism that provides operation of the rudder
Another part of radio control sail boats you should know are the directions in their nautical terms:
Fore means to the front of the boat
Starboard means to the right of the boat, if you are facing the direction the boat is traveling
Port means to the left of the boat, if you are facing the direction the boat is traveling
Aft means to the rear of the boat
Awash means level with the water
Inboard anything located entirely inside the hull
Outboard anything located entirely outside the hull
Now that you have the basic vocabulary to get your feet wet in the world of radio control sail boats, let's take you the next step.
SAILING TIPS:
When you take your
RC sail boat
to the lake, don't forget your boat stand. This is an important accessory to support and protect your boat as you prepare for sailing. While the boat is on the stand, make sure the sails are faced directly into the wind to prevent it from being blown over.
Before you begin sailing, check to see whether anyone else around the lake is operating a boat of any kind. You'll need to check with any other RC operators to avoid frequency conflicts.
Before placing your boat in the water, turn on your radio transmitter and double check all the linkages and rigging.
With the radio transmitter on, check the operation of the radio control sail boats servos and rigging.
With the sailboat still on the stand, check the operation of the rudder.
Check the operation of the sail winch making certain that when the transmitter stick is down, the boat's sails are fully hauled in.
Once you've double-checked the rigging and controls, you're ready to place your yacht in the water. Make certain that you select a location where the water is deep enough to accept the full length of the keel and ballast.
To save the boat from capsizing in a squall (a blast of wind) or to bring it to an abrupt halt, simply turn it directly into the wind.
It's always handy to have a large hypodermic syringe as water will eventually get into your boat and need to be bailed out. A foot or so of " soft plastic tube fitted to the syringe will aid in bailing.
Attach a small flag to the top of the radio control sail boats mast to tell you which direction the wind is coming from.
And finally, try sailing your maiden voyages on shallow ponds no more than a couple of feet deep just in case the unthinkable happens and you have to go in after it!
Enjoy your hobby!!
(All links open new windows)
The uniqueness of
radio control sail boats
is that they depend on the wind for their propulsion and speed. The radio controller allows you to maneuver the boats direction by guiding the rudder, but there is no power motor on any RC sailboats.
Understanding the anatomy of a radio control sail boat is the first step in understanding how a sail boat works.
Listed below are the main components:
Rigging This is the general term for the ropes that provide support and/or control of components such as booms and sails.
Mast The mast is the long upward beam providing central support for the sails. The top of the main mast is generally the tallest point of the sailboat. If a true sailboat has a crows nest, or lookout, this is located on the main mast.
Mainsail This one is the largest of the sails, which are pieces of cloth used to catch wind and propel the boat. The design on a main sail is often the signature of a radio control sail boat.
Jib The jib is a smaller sail, often located towards the front of the boat from the main sail.
Boom This horizontal beam found below the sail keeps the sail spread out and controls its rotational motion.
Stays These are the rigging pieces that prevent fore and aft movement of the masts.
Mainsheet This is a rigging piece that affects the shape of the main sail. The mainsheet is tightened or loosened to achieve the desired results.
Jib sheet This is a rigging piece that affects the shape of the jib sail.
Transom The transom is the flat, back portion of the radio control sail boat.
Hull The hull describes the part of the boat that sits in the water.
Deck This is flat surface creating the top of the hull.
Keel The keel extrudes from the bottom of boat and holds the ballast.
Ballast This is the weight used for balancing the boat.
Rudder The rudder is located in the back of the boat, hangs into the water, and is the device used for steering.
Stern This is the rear portion of the boat
Bow This is the front portion of the boat
Helm The helm is the mechanism that provides operation of the rudder
Another part of radio control sail boats you should know are the directions in their nautical terms:
Fore means to the front of the boat
Starboard means to the right of the boat, if you are facing the direction the boat is traveling
Port means to the left of the boat, if you are facing the direction the boat is traveling
Aft means to the rear of the boat
Awash means level with the water
Inboard anything located entirely inside the hull
Outboard anything located entirely outside the hull
Now that you have the basic vocabulary to get your feet wet in the world of radio control sail boats, let's take you the next step.
SAILING TIPS:
When you take your
RC sail boat
to the lake, don't forget your boat stand. This is an important accessory to support and protect your boat as you prepare for sailing. While the boat is on the stand, make sure the sails are faced directly into the wind to prevent it from being blown over.
Before you begin sailing, check to see whether anyone else around the lake is operating a boat of any kind. You'll need to check with any other RC operators to avoid frequency conflicts.
Before placing your boat in the water, turn on your radio transmitter and double check all the linkages and rigging.
With the radio transmitter on, check the operation of the radio control sail boats servos and rigging.
With the sailboat still on the stand, check the operation of the rudder.
Check the operation of the sail winch making certain that when the transmitter stick is down, the boat's sails are fully hauled in.
Once you've double-checked the rigging and controls, you're ready to place your yacht in the water. Make certain that you select a location where the water is deep enough to accept the full length of the keel and ballast.
To save the boat from capsizing in a squall (a blast of wind) or to bring it to an abrupt halt, simply turn it directly into the wind.
It's always handy to have a large hypodermic syringe as water will eventually get into your boat and need to be bailed out. A foot or so of " soft plastic tube fitted to the syringe will aid in bailing.
Attach a small flag to the top of the radio control sail boats mast to tell you which direction the wind is coming from.
And finally, try sailing your maiden voyages on shallow ponds no more than a couple of feet deep just in case the unthinkable happens and you have to go in after it!
Enjoy your hobby!!
Nov 29, 2008
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I also occasionally have awesome specials on sale that only my loyal readers hear about...enjoy!
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First Name
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Don't worry -- your e-mail address is totally secure.
I promise to use it only to send you RC News.
Before you go, I just want to let you know about my quarterly (March, June, Sept, Dec) RC newsletter chock full of the latest information and reviews about all aspects of our wonderful hobby.
I also occasionally have awesome specials on sale that only my loyal readers hear about...enjoy!
E-mail Address
First Name
Then
Don't worry -- your e-mail address is totally secure.
I promise to use it only to send you RC News.
Radio control jets information
Exploring Radio Control Jets
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Radio control jets
are a fascinating and growing segment of radio control model aircraft. Even if you are an avid radio control enthusiast, you may be amazed by the level of detailed construction that some of the jets have on the market today.
Radio control jets come in all shapes and sizes, many fashioned as replicas of some of the top combat jets flown throughout the world. Much of the realism of these jet models comes from the fact that they have highly detailed cockpit features with lifelike model pilots at the helm. All of this detail is made visual by a clear canopy covering the cockpit.
If you are just looking for the basics in radio control jets, the two main differences in jet models are the construction material and the type of engines they use.
The construction material of radio control jets varies with the manufacturer, but they can be classified into three major categories. The first types are the balsa wood models. These are made with a mainly wooden frame onto which the other components are attached. These balsa wood models can be made very realistic, and they are fairly lightweight when complete.
The second type of RC jets are fiberglass models. These are a bit heavier but much more durable in construction. They are generally built from preformed fiberglass pieces. A lot of your beginner radio control jets are made from this type of construction.
The third, newest form is the injection-molded model jet. These jets have pieces that are made of plastic, which is melted and forced into the shape of various molds. This method of construction allows the plastic to be formed into tighter curves and more lifelike and aerodynamic model jet parts.
Another difference in radio control jets is the engine type. Some of the more basic jets have a ducted fan powered by a an electric motor or else a glow-type model aircraft engine. Other models are powered by turbine engines. These turbine engines are exactly what they sound like real jet engines.
Its important to note that the engine choice of an aircraft is not an afterthought. It is an essential part of the aircrafts design. You cant put a turbine engine on just any radio control jet. A turbine engine must be supported by a very structurally sound model jet frame. There is a lot of speed and vibration associated with a turbine engine, and your model has to be up to the physical strain.
*An important consideration of turbine engines is safety. A turbine engine requires a heavier fuel load, and it operates at high temperatures. If a jet with a turbine engine crashes, fire is likely to follow. If you are operating a turbine engine jet, be sure to carry along a proper fire extinguisher and keep your distance from spectators.
Radio control aircraft can be a fun and exciting hobby. And if you are into speed, radio control jets may be just what you are looking for.
(All links open new windows)
Radio control jets
are a fascinating and growing segment of radio control model aircraft. Even if you are an avid radio control enthusiast, you may be amazed by the level of detailed construction that some of the jets have on the market today.
Radio control jets come in all shapes and sizes, many fashioned as replicas of some of the top combat jets flown throughout the world. Much of the realism of these jet models comes from the fact that they have highly detailed cockpit features with lifelike model pilots at the helm. All of this detail is made visual by a clear canopy covering the cockpit.
If you are just looking for the basics in radio control jets, the two main differences in jet models are the construction material and the type of engines they use.
The construction material of radio control jets varies with the manufacturer, but they can be classified into three major categories. The first types are the balsa wood models. These are made with a mainly wooden frame onto which the other components are attached. These balsa wood models can be made very realistic, and they are fairly lightweight when complete.
The second type of RC jets are fiberglass models. These are a bit heavier but much more durable in construction. They are generally built from preformed fiberglass pieces. A lot of your beginner radio control jets are made from this type of construction.
The third, newest form is the injection-molded model jet. These jets have pieces that are made of plastic, which is melted and forced into the shape of various molds. This method of construction allows the plastic to be formed into tighter curves and more lifelike and aerodynamic model jet parts.
Another difference in radio control jets is the engine type. Some of the more basic jets have a ducted fan powered by a an electric motor or else a glow-type model aircraft engine. Other models are powered by turbine engines. These turbine engines are exactly what they sound like real jet engines.
Its important to note that the engine choice of an aircraft is not an afterthought. It is an essential part of the aircrafts design. You cant put a turbine engine on just any radio control jet. A turbine engine must be supported by a very structurally sound model jet frame. There is a lot of speed and vibration associated with a turbine engine, and your model has to be up to the physical strain.
*An important consideration of turbine engines is safety. A turbine engine requires a heavier fuel load, and it operates at high temperatures. If a jet with a turbine engine crashes, fire is likely to follow. If you are operating a turbine engine jet, be sure to carry along a proper fire extinguisher and keep your distance from spectators.
Radio control aircraft can be a fun and exciting hobby. And if you are into speed, radio control jets may be just what you are looking for.
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